Thursday, September 26, 2013

Two nights in Bangkok


Remember the 80’s song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9mwELXPGbA? Well, Ana and Simon upgraded it from “One night in Bangkok” to two nights!

Ana has been working for more than half a year in Asia by now. She had hoped before that her work may allow her to do some business travel around the region. Finally, August presented a company training in Bangkok on a Thursday and Friday. She could check with Mercer and they allowed her to fly back to Singapore on Sunday instead and thus, Simon booked a flight to Bangkok to join her for the weekend. As they wanted to explore Thailand’s capital at some point anyhow, this basically just solved the question when to go there.

Simon met Ana in the afternoon of Friday. She staid in a down-to-earth business hotel in the Expat area of Bangkok, even though it still seemed pretty local to the European explorers. They went out for some drinks with Ana’s colleagues and continued to a pretty unique restaurant experience: “Cabbage & Condoms”. The food was mainly Thai and quite good. The interesting part of it was the decoration. All the lamps, pictures on the wall and lampions in the garden were created out of a multitude of different color-condoms. Other than that, the food was great and the atmosphere was a lot of fun. Saturday, they started their exploration of the city. All in all, Bangkok is a city full of contrasts. Ana and Simon did very “touristy” visits and major sightseeing, including temples, Thai houses and high rise buildings. 

In the garden of a very nice Thai building complex

Simon with the Thai ladies
A major temple in Bangkok
The massive 2.5 ton pure gold Buddha inside the temple
The gate to Chinatown against the background of the Golden Buddha Temple
On the other hand, the city life seemed to be unaffected by either the fact that millions of tourists visit Bangkok every year or that it is the Thai capital and by far the largest city of the country. Just a few dozen meters off the main roads, the life seemed to be much calmer and even more exotic than what the average tourist would see. One of the highlights that should be on the travel agenda for  every tourist is definitely the Grand Palace. Thailand was the only country in the region that remained independent from any colonial powers and can look back at a long history as an empire. However, it also never reached the scale or expansion of some European powers or China. Nevertheless, the Grand Palace stunned Ana and Simon much more than any palace they had ever seen in Europe. Sorry Buckingham Palace, move over Palacio Real, not good enough Neuschwanstein. It combines a spiritual part with a huge temple complex, thousand of golden tiles, grand architecture with the political power of the Thai kingdom and large representative buildings for state affairs. Words are barely enough to describe it. In case any of the readers ever travel to Bangkok, make sure to reserve three hours or more and get a local guide to explain you everything. Ana and Simon didn’t have the luxury of time but would have loved to do this.

Amazing murals on the inner walls of the Golden Palace
View of the palace complex
Spectacular temples inside the Grand Palace
Ana and Simon inside the Grand Palace
Doing his duty for Thailand

Golden tiles wherever you look
Huge warriors protecting some of the buildings inside the palace
The actual main palace building
Another, less expected, highlight were the buzzling streets of Chinatown. It is not the “usual Chinatown” that gets recommended in the guide books. Basically, Ana and Simon were looking for a ferry on the mighty Chao Phraya river when they decided to explore an alley with a few spice shops. One more turn and they were in the midst of Chinatown, the only Westerners and amazed by the variety of products, spices, fruits and everything on offer.

Different spices in Chinatown
Not many Westerners around...
... but fresh fruit juice everywhere
Another fun experience in Bangkok are the night markets. They are basically a combination of some original cultural heritage (many goods would have been sold at night when cooler temperatures would be better for the sale of perishable goods) with modern pleasures of shopping after business hours and eating out for dinner. A rather new night market is called Asiatique and is accessible with a water shuttle only. Ana and Simon could enjoy some great seafood with a nice atmosphere right next to the river. Also, they were able to enjoy the fact that Bangkok is home to rooftop bars about 200m above ground. Quite a nice atmosphere, even though the city is missing a skyline. That is what’s happening when there is no civil engineering as in Singapore.

All in all, Thailand’s capital and its friendly inhabitants proved to be a very good weekend destination. Definitely to be recommended!
Local transport: River boat with monks

When in Bangkok - travel by tuk-tuk

Friday, September 13, 2013

The other George Town


If you hear about Georgetown, it is probably safe to assume that you will think about the one in Washington DC – Georgetown University and the number of embassies in that area of town are quite famous in the Western world. However, there is another George Town worth visiting – the main city of the Malaysian island of Penang and the first British founded settlement in the region. Before the foundation of Singapore, George Town was the most important administrative outpost for Britain in the region. Due to the somewhat superior location of Singapore right at the tip of the Malay peninsula and a natural stop over for foreign trade, George Town did decline in importance. This, however, brought its upsides as most of the old town was preserved and awarded UNESCO world heritage status in 2008.

When looking into destinations that are worthwhile visiting for just a weekend, George Town had been on Ana and Simon’s list. The airport of Penang is reachable within an 80 minutes flight and is served by major low-cost airlines – getting there is convenient and inexpensive. So the two decided to go there in July with another couple that they had met in Singapore: Edward and Charlotte. Edward is studying with Simon and Charlotte is working in Singapore just as Ana. They are a very nice couple – but this should be part of their blog ;-)

The four of them met at the Singapore airport on Friday evening and arrived in no time in Penang. They had booked a cute Bed & Breakfast in the old and very lovely city center of George Town. It was located in an old Chinese shop house. They basically shared the house which consisted of two suites and was mainly left in its original state from the 1920s except for the modern amenities / necessities like Air Conditioning. For dinner, they went to a hawker center which – similar to Singapore – carried a huge variety of Asian food offers at very affordable prices. They also could enjoy some Chinese live music (very much enjoyed by the audience, less by them) and a few Western songs (that they enjoyed but left the rest of the people basically unaffected). They finished their first night out with a few beers on the terrace in front of their home for the weekend and had gotten quite a positive first impression of George Town.

The entrance to our Chinese shop house
On Saturday, the group of four went to the North Western corner of Penang Island, home of the oldest national park of Malaysia. They had decided to go for a little jungle hike to the Western Coast. It was a very nice walk, about three kilometers, lots of ups and downs and amazing colors in the rain forest. They would even encounter a rather sizeable lizard on the way. They arrived at “Turtle Beach” after about 75 minutes and were taken back to the initial starting point of their expedition by boat. They enjoyed a late lunch of seafood before getting back to George Town.
Ana, the explorer

Turtle Beach

In the evening, they went to have dinner at China House, a restored Chinese storage hall that would occupy the length of a full block – probably 200 meters in length. They had read about it and were amazed by the combination of Western and Asian food, as well as their great selection of cakes for desert. It was so good that they decided to come back there the next day for a late lunch before flying back to Singapore and they were not disappointed the second time either. The place also had a wide variety of games and in case you hadn’t read it in the news: Ana, Simon and the British couple build the tallest Jenga-Tower in Southeast Asia on Sunday ;-). On Saturday night, however, they were caught in a big tropical thunderstorm and after waiting for thirty minutes for the rain to stop, they finally decided just to run back to the hotel (getting completely soaked) where they changed into the provided Chinese bathrobes and finished the evening with a bottle of wine.

On Sunday, the four Western tourists explored most of the actual city of George Town – from colonial churches to an old British fort to Chinese settlements on poles in the ocean. The highlight was definitely the trip up to Penang Hill, a small peak that gave them a great panoramic view of the area, including the mainland of Malaysia. It was also a few degrees cooler than in steamy George Town and Simon enjoyed the fact that he could get a cold German beer. Paulaner can be found almost anywhere in Southeast Asia!

The main Mosque in Penang


Street art

Chinese town house


The four traveler on Penang Hill
As promised, German beer with a view

All in all, it was a very nice weekend trip and is definitely to be repeated, also with Edward and Charlotte that turned out to be great sports.