Friday, October 25, 2013

Yogyakarta – Temples in Java


Tiger Airways, this low-cost offspring of Singapore Airlines turned nine in September and had promotions that led Simon to make an „impulse purchase“. For a weekend trip, he saw a super offer to go to Yogyakarta and just purchased two tickets for him and his travel companion Ana.

Yogyakarta? Never heard of it? 
A great city has to have an international airport terminal...
Well, Yogyakarta is much smaller than the Indonesian capital and monster-city of Jakarta but it is also located on Java, the world’s most populous island and one of the most densely populated places in the world (less than 10% of Indonesia’s surface but more than 60% of its population). Yogya (as it is called) is supposedly the “soul of Java” but more importantly, it has two historic sites in its vicinity: The temples and world heritage sites of Borobudur and Prambanan. 

To explain this, we need to go a bit into the turbulent history of what is today Indonesia. Will keep it short in order not to bore the reader but it is quite interesting anyhow. As Indonesia’s name suggest, the region of thousand islands was strongly influenced by India and trade relations with the subcontinent brought Buddhism as well as Hinduism to the region as early as in the 4th century. (Along these trade routes, Islam would spread later and replace Buddhism and Hinduism by the 16th century). The kingdoms of Java were very religious and since both religions were equally spread, the temples of Borobudur with 504 Buddha statues and Prambanan, the largest Hindu temple complex in Southeast Asia have been built roughly at the same time. (For further reading: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Indonesia)

To make the most of their weekend, Ana and Simon spent Friday night in the town of Borobudur in a lovely colonial hotel. As Borobudur is Indonesia’s single most visited tourist attraction, they decided to get up at 4:00 AM to see the sunrise at 5:15 at the temple site and thus avoid all the tourists that would leave early in the morning in tour buses from Yogyakarta. It was quite impressive at the early hour, with the mist lifting in the valley and hundreds of Buddha statues as well as countless stupas and stone carvings giving quite a different view to Western tourists. Just when the first buses arrived, they had seen most of the temple and could enjoy a good breakfast buffet before going back to Yogyakarta.

First view of Borodbudur from the park entrance
After sunrise from the top of the temple complex
So peaceful
 
Under each stupa sits a Buddha
But you can also see the Buddhas here
No tourists (yet)
Find the Buddha
Last view on the way down
 After having checked in to their hotel in Yogya, they continued to the Hindu temple of Prambanan. These are closer to the city and even in heavy traffic (as it seems to be ubiquitous in Indonesia’s cities), it took them just 30 minutes to get there. Besides the main temple, there are a few less frequented sites that Ana and Simon explored first. They almost felt like Indiana Jones as most of the temples had fallen into pieces due to frequent earthquakes and volcanic activities over time and are just slowly reconstructed.
A lot of rebuilding needs to be done
One of the small temple areas near Prambanan
These little temples all aligned behind the larger one
Find the tourists
And obviously, the surroundings are very green and tropical
The major temple complex is a definite highlight. The Hindu “trinity” – the TrimÅ«rti – is expressed with three temples that are dedicated to the gods Brahma (the creator), Vishnu (the preserver) and Shiva (the destroyer). Around them there were more than 230 little temples of which only a few have been reconstructed. Ana and Simon shared a guide with a French tourist and he had some great stories to tell. The level of detail on the stone work was very impressive and really putting churches/cathedrals in Europe into perspective. At the end, they easily spent more than 2 hours at the complex. This way, they could also see the sun setting behind the temples. 
First impression of Prambanan
The main building for Vishnu
Many stone carvings, even more detailed than in Borobudur

Ganesha cannot be missed
Stunning lights
Ana had to touch many carvings for good luck and wealth (hope it works!)
The complex in the beautiful setting of the park
The sun is setting
Very happy with the light effects
One special feature of the Prambanan temple is that it acts as the background for an old and very colorful ballet – the Ramayana. This is a Hindu epic story - the Ramayana ballet is performed with the most amazing costumes, colors and make-ups by a sheer mass of 200 performing artists. After a good Indonesian dinner against the background of the lit Prambanan temple, the performance started at 7:30 PM. Although it also started to rain quite heavily in the middle of the show (and it was open air), it turned out to be a great spectacle and thus a Grande Finale of a long day. 
The background for Ana and Simon's dinner
The costumes, postures and make-up were beautiful
The show ended with parts of the stage set on fire (almost as in Hollywood)
Before heading back to Singapore, Ana and Simon also checked the Yogyakarta city center. Yogya is supposedly much less chaotic than other Indonesian cities and quite scenic.
The main draw of downtown Yogyakarta - the Kraton Palace
Well, everything is relative and they just realized that Indonesian temples, beaches and landscape are more beautiful.

Thursday, October 17, 2013

Hong Kong – the ”other” Singapore

After having seen the wilder parts of the Borneo jungles and rural sites in the Mekong Delta or the rice fields of Bali, Ana and Simon felt that they needed some new “big city vibes”. A very attractive flight offer then suddenly put Hong Kong on the map – despite being almost four hours away from Singapore. Ana and Simon went there for a three day weekend in September, leaving Singapore Friday morning and returning Sunday.

Simon had already been to Hong Kong in 2007, returning from his trip to Australia and New Zealand. Back then, he had, however, only seen the big city life. Thus, he was more than willing to explore Hong Kong “off the beaten path”. Since Ana has some colleagues from Hong Kong and Simon some classmates, they were well-advised what else to see beyond the famous Victoria Harbour.

Their first daytime excursion thus led them to the little village of Stanley on the South Coast of Hong Kong Island. Within less than 10km from the central district, there is a street market in a village that almost seems to have some type of Mediterranean flair. Ana and Simon really enjoyed strolling the alleys of the street market, stop for a coke and later lunch with some beers while looking at the piers and enjoying 30 Csunshine. Obviously, you cannot ignore that you are in one of the most densely-populated regions of the planet – there were big condominium buildings somewhat destroying the views of the country side but as long as they were in the back and out of the view, the impression of a Mediterranean fishermen village held up.

Hong Kong - really? Yes, the Southern part of HK Island
 
Almost Mediterranean feel
 Apparently, it gets even more original than that if you go to one of the 200 islands or to explore the “New Territories” (the mainland part of Hong Kong) on hiking trail. Unfortunately, Ana and Simon did not have the time to see the beaches or mountain regions there.

Other than the “not-expected” small-town vibe, Hong Kong obviously offers a lot of big-city charm. Ana and Simon headed to the Victoria Peak, the famous hill that provides breathtaking views over the harbour and the financial district of Hong Kong. It is incredible to see this place which has the largest number of skyscrapers in the world. As an international metropolis, Hong Kong also offered some great restaurants where Ana could indulge in mix of Western and Easter cuisine, either with nice views or with a prohibition style atmosphere and the most interesting drink selection. They even met with another INSEAD student and friends and partied one night in Hong Kong among many expats and Chinese alike.
View from a restaurant with delicious food

Dumplings at their best
Peking duck
The Bank of China building in the financial district
Ana and Simon at Victoria Peak
View of Victoria Harbour without tourists
Singapore and Hong Kong are quite alike in many aspects - both city states, both part of the "tiger states" of economic development in the 1970s to 1990s, both former British colonies with a predominantly Chinese cultural influence. The main difference is Hong Kong's proximity to China which makes the Chinese influence much more pronounced. Despite the fact that Hong Kong still has a currency and passports of their own, the city was always considered as a part of China whereas Singapore was "the little red dot" at the end of the Malaysian peninsula. All in all, Ana and Simon had the feeling that Hong Kong had somewhat of a more “real” city feeling and was a great getaway weekend, adding to the lists of South East Asian metropolis places.