Friday, November 22, 2013

The expedition to Southeast Asia’s highest mountain

Mt. Kinabalu is the largest mountain in Borneo, in Malaysia and – as a matter of fact – in Southeast Asia between the peaks of the Himalaya and the mountain ranges of New Guinea. At 4,095m, it is higher than any peak in alpine Austria or Spain’s tallest mountain El Teide and ranked as the 20th most prominent peak in the world as it is not part of a larger mountain range. Have Ana and Simon become serious mountaineers or how did they make it?

First view of Mt. Kinabalu from the bus getting the group to the National Park
The top of Mt. Kinabalu
Ana and Simon being very optimistic before starting their ascent
To tell you how this part of their Asian adventure developed, you need to know that – despite its prominence – Mt. Kinabalu is also considered as one of the most accessible peaks which makes it an attractive destination for people who think they can make it there - basically, no mountaineering skills are required. Ana had heard great things about Borneo and Mt. Kinabalu from her colleagues and Simon learned about tracks to the mountain when fellow INSEAD students went there earlier in 2013 and were deeply impressed. They assembled a team of six (including them) which truly reflected the diverse background of people that they have met over the year in Singapore: two British, one British-Tunisian, one French and the German / Spanish team would climb the mountain on a long weekend in November. 
International mountain expedition ready to go
 Ana, Simon and the group flew from Singapore to Kota Kinabalu (or KK), a provincial capital in the North of Malaysian Borneo on Friday night. They spent the night at an affordable hotel and were picked up by their tour operator to be driven to the Mt. Kinabalu National Park. They met their tour guide, could look at the challenge ahead and were equipped with some bagged lunch. Around 9AM, off they went. The ascent on the first day is about 6km long and goes from 1,866m to 3,270m – an average of 23% ascending slope. The program for the second day would then see another 2.7km to reach the Low’s Peak (named after the first person to explore the top part of Mt. Kinabalu) at 4,095m – another 30% slope.
Yes, it was quite steep
Going uphill through dense vegetation
The ascent on the first day passes quite dense vegetation, even in areas that are higher than Germany tallest mountain that always has some ice on its top. The group of six managed thinner air and literally walking through clouds. It was tough going up but there were shelters along the way that provided space for short rests and eventually, they managed quite well and reached their hut in the afternoon. The accommodation was basic but fulfilled the needs. They knew they had to gather their strengths so after re-packing, some safety instructions and a well-deserved dinner, they hit the beds around 8PM as they knew the night would end early.
A much needed break on the way
The stop for the night
The second day started at 2:00 AM! As around 180 climbers would sleep in different huts around the same height, our guide decided to leave at 3AM to ensure that there would be less “traffic jams”. In pitchblack darkness, they were all equipped with head torches and started the ascent. The steps were larger, the trail was tougher – despite the fact that Mt. Kinabalu is well-accessible, getting to the summit does not come easy. At places, they could see a procession of lights above and below them, passing quite many fellow mountaineers and the group was well in time to reach the summit for sunrise. Suddenly, the vegetation stopped and everyone needed to walk over naked granite rocks – incl. some parts where one needed to pull oneself up with the help of a rope. Slowly, some structures became visible around the group as dawn was breaking. The last 50 meters could be climbed without the head torches and the group just made it in time for the sunrise. Let the pictures speak.

Parts of the "procession" coming up the mountain
First glimpse of light on the horizon (see the lights of fellow climbers on the lower right corner)
The sun is coming...
First view of the neighboring peak
Despite the fact that it was only 3 degrees, no one was cold. Going up the mountain created so much heat that Ana and Simon were fine with just a t-shirt and a rain jacket (that they didn’t need – yet) and after the sun had risen, it still radiated enough heat for them not to be cold. After 20 minutes on the summit, they started their descent but the adventure part of the trip was not over still. 
Sunrise behind the British-Tunisian, British, German and Spanish parts of the expedition
And there it is. Very rewarding sight!
The group of six on top!
Mt. Kinabalu literally cast quite an impressive shadow at sunrise
 The tour that they had booked (much in advance) included a “Via Ferrata” which literally means “iron street” and basically is a set of steel cables, steel steps and handles in the mountain. This way, it is possible for climbers to safely explore more extreme parts of the mountain and Ana and Simon did exactly that, together with Julien (the French) and Ed (British – know from other blog entries). The operators were super professional and the level of safety was higher than in Europe (according to people who had done it before – it was the first time for Ana and Simon). The experience there was quite different – thrilling, exhausting, scary at times but totally worth it. 
Simon coming down from the top
Ready for the Via Ferrata
Down they go
Clouds were coming in...
Crossing a "monkey bridge"
Almost done
They reached the hut around 11AM, had a second breakfast and prepared for the way down. This was actually the tricky part as the strain on the legs tends to be greater when going downhill and now, they had to go all the way down where they had the full day to go up on Saturday – after having climbed the peak, done the Via Ferrata and descended to the hut. Moreover, tropical rain started (it was actually forecasted to rain heavily during the ascent at night so they were quite lucky that the rain was delayed) and really taught them a lesson why the vegetation around Mt. Kinabalu is called “rain forest”. The group was getting tired and at the same time amazed what they had climbed up on the first day. After all, they managed to reach the station that they had departed from 30 hours earlier around 5PM and then realized that they had been exercising for 14 hours (minus one hour breakfast break). What a day.
Wet and exhausted - but happy!
Well-deserved (and pretty) set of diplomas for Ana and Simon's accomplishment
The sense of achievement cannot be underestimated. Ana and Simon felt that they had completed a Marathon and actually had the benefit of seeing an awesome sunrise while doing this. They were back in KK at night, had a well-deserved dinner and enjoyed the best shower in many years as well as a very comfortable night of sleep. The sore muscles that they had to fight the next few days were well worth the experience. No pain, no gain!
True story

Thursday, November 7, 2013

Taiwan – the other China

China is not only the largest country in the world by population and a rising economic powerhouse; it is also a great influence in Southeast Asia. All countries in the region have large Chinese cultural influence and most have large percentages of ethnic Chinese population. More than 75% of Singapore’s population is ethnic Chinese and in Hong Kong, the population exceeds 90% easily. But there is even a second Chinese (de-facto) nation, the Republic of China, better known as Taiwan. This island off the coast of mainland China acts as the stage for Ana and Simon’s newest adventure in Asia – a trip to Taiwan.

At this stage of the blog, it should be mentioned that Ana and Simon are very lucky living in Singapore which has a great hub for Asia travels – Changi Airport. Moreover, there are three major low-cost airlines based in Singapore (Air Asia, Tiger Airways and Jetstar) which all make it easy for Ana and Simon to get around efficiently and at relatively low costs.

In October, Singapore celebrates its second Muslim holiday – Hari Raya Haji – and that gave Ana and Simon the chance to have another long weekend. Since they had looked into flights early on, they got a good offer for a Tiger Airways flight to Taipei for a four day weekend. Taiwan is described by the Rough Guide travel book as the “most underrated travel destination in Asia” and at least for Ana and Simon, that described it very well. They had not given much thought to potentially travel to Taiwan until they heard great stories from people that had been there and absolutely loved it.

So off they went.

Taiwan is quite unique. It is well-developed, has a cultural mix that is different from most Southeast Asian countries with a Chinese majority and some cultural and historic influences from Japan that go back to the 50 years of colonial rule. Especially the cuisine in Taiwan reflects this strongly and Ana and Simon were able to experience this. From Chinese hot pots (at a restaurant without an English menu) to Taiwanese dumplings (by the Michelin star winning restaurant chain Din Tai Fung that they knew from Singapore) to an exquisite Japanese dinner – Ana and Simon were quite amazed.
Hmmm, what to order?
Hot pot with veggies, egg, beef and shrimp
The shrimp is done
Best salmon sushi

Taipei as the capital and largest city of Taiwan offers a bunch of cultural highlights. One of the big draws is definitely the largest set of Chinese architecture around Chiang Kai-Shek memorial square. Despite the weather forecasts, Ana and Simon could enjoy the buildings around there and massive gates on a day full of sunshine. The actual memorial hall sees a large statue of Chiang Kai-Shek, former leader of China before the foundation of the People’s Republic and later president of the de-facto independent Taiwan sitting and smiling as if he were at the Lincoln Memorial in Washington DC.

Chiang Kai-Shek memorial hall

At the park with the National Concert Hall in the background

The entrance gate to the memorial square

Taipei's National Concert Hall

There he sits as if he were Abe Lincoln

View of the whole memorial area


The National Palace museum has the largest collection of ancient Chinese artifacts and artwork, mostly taken from China in the evacuation of the Republican forces to Taiwan in 1949 (and therefore an issue of constant struggle with mainland China). Also, Taipei’s temples were some of the most impressive and colorful artworks that Ana and Simon have seen during their time in Asia. It was also quite interesting to see the mix of people that go to pray at these temples as they seem to reflect a broader mix of the population than churches in Europe. Last but not least, the modern Taipei is represented in the area around Taipei 101, between 2004 and 2009 the largest building on the planet and the first one taller than 500 meters. While they only saw Taipei at night from the top, they could still enjoy riding the world’s fastest elevator – an ear-popping experience at 1010m per minute.

Amazing temple
The inner prayer room in full colors
The dragon is after the moon (or so it seems)
The National Palace Museum from the outside (note all the flags!)
Taipei 101 at sunset
View from the top
What makes Taipei very enjoyable is it’s proximity to a large and beautifully preserved national park. Ana and Simon were well-prepared and brought their hiking boots to Taiwan so they climbed a 1000m hill that gave them great views over Taipei and the nearby sea border. Despite being October, they had warm and sunny weather and were in for quite a challenging overall experience that was rewarding even though the sore muscles could be felt the next days.
Ana the explorer
Almost at the top (Taipei in the background)
Ana, Simon and the sea
The path to Wonderland / Middle Earth / King Arthur?
Before leaving Taiwan, Ana and Simon also paid a visit to Asia’s largest zoo. While this sounds impressive and definitely was in terms of area covered, the zoo needs a bit of upgrading. Nevertheless, it is home of Pandas and being in Asia, you will fall in love with these cute bears :)
There's nothing cuter than a sleeping Koala
Well, maybe a Panda!
Taiwan has more to offer and obviously, Ana and Simon couldn’t see the whole island in four days. In case you are thinking of going there, you should give it at least a week and also explore beaches, mountain villages and more natural parks. For the time they had, however, they were very happy with what they’ve seen and would recommend it to anyone for sure!