Sunday, March 17, 2013

Asia for advanced travelers – Long weekend trip to Vietnam


Sorry for everyone who enjoys reading this blog that there hasn’t been an update for quite some time. As announced before, the first week of March brought the first round of exams for Simon at INSEAD and also Ana needed to tackle more of the exams in order to obtain her local licensing. Thus, the first week of March involved a lot of study time and in Simon’s case, it brought 5 exams within 55 hours – a combined 16 hours of exams. However, what usually happens if things are very condensed: Once they are over, you feel quickly very relieved. Thus, Simon hurried home, picked up two prepared carry-on suitcases, picked up Ana at her office and they took a cab to the airport. After having traveled just to the nearby areas of Singapore, they were awaiting the first real get-away trip to Vietnam. 

At this stage, they would like to share a super quick update on Vietnam, just for the uninformed reader to better understand this travel destination. If you are a Master of Vietnamese culture, you can skip this part J: Vietnam is probably know in the west primarily because of the Vietnam War. However, this proud Southeast-Asian country has a long history, more than 90 M inhabitants (having surpassed the German population around the year 2000) and it had a very strong economic growth in the past 15 years, relying on the Chinese development model. After the end of the Vietnam War, Vietnam was (re-)united under the victorious communists that implemented a rigorous one-party state, a dictatorship “Soviet Style”. 
 
When the Iron Curtain fell and most traditional trading partners of Vietnam disappeared, the Vietnamese political leadership thought that it may need to change the way it ruled the country in order to stay in power. Thus, similar to China, Vietnam opened up its market, liberalized its economy and fuel by low wages, industrious people and fertile land, it managed to gain an increasing share of international trade. Today, it is a capitalist one-party authoritarian rule that doesn’t have much to do with Communism other than the name of the ruling party. Having said that, the people of Vietnam are hungry to improve their economic well-being, they are motivated, friendly, many speak English (and French) and you can feel how the country is opening up. Ho Chi Minh City (the former Saigon, I will call it this way) is located in the South of Vietnam and as in many geographies, the people in the South are also considered to be the “more relaxed” people, being more open-minded and embracing the opportunities of the new economic freedom. Saigon has more than 7 Million inhabitants, having grown tremendously, and almost as many motorbikes / scooters. It is located about 100 km North of the Mekong Delta, the “rice bowl” of Vietnam where one of Asia’s largest rivers discharges in the South China Sea.

Well, now the interested reader knows almost everything that matters about Ana and Simon’s travel destination. Since it was the weekend of the break between two periods at INSEAD, they were not the only ones who had the idea to go on this trip – about 20 international students were on the same flight, more joining in Saigon on Thursday. After a short 2 hour flight, they arrived at the international airport and had to deal with the complicating immigration process. They needed to pay an additional USD 45 for their visa – quite ironic that one can pay almost everything in dollars while the Vietnamese tried almost everything to kick Americans out of Vietnam. But that’s another story. One of Simon’s classmates (Kim-Chi) is half-Vietnamese and had relatives in Saigon who greeted us at the airport. Kim-Chi’s aunt was very worried that the group would overpay because they were so many foreigners so she negotiated the taxi fare (which turned out to be only 1 USD per person on the “local” price) and then showed us a dinner place on a local night market where the odd-collection of individuals from all around the world were quite an attraction. Vietnamese food is super amazing – very fresh, with a lot of vegetables and highly recommendable. 
 
The first full day, a group of about 16 people did a city tour of Saigon in the morning. Saigon is the largest city in Vietnam and was the former administrative center of French colonial rule (they were there until 1954) and thus, they left a few impressive buildings. Ana, Simon and the gang started at the “Notre-Dame Cathedral”, visited the belle-epoque style post office (with the ubiquitous picture of Ho Chi Minh or as he is called by the Vietnamese: Uncle Ho) and took a tour of the “reunification palace”. This building was the seat of the South Vietnamese president and the picture of a North Vietnamese tank passing through the gate in 1975 is one of these pictures that made world history. Afterwards, they went to a museum that remembered the war and all the cruel things that happened in Vietnam. Pretty shocking (as with any war museum) but it also had a bunch of old American equipment – amazing what the US shipped over here to fight a war. 
Notre Dame Cathedral

Independence Palace

American Tank

American fighter plane
Afterwards, they went to have lunch to a typical Vietnamese restaurant and enjoyed some delicious “Bún bò Huế” – the Vietnamese beef soup with long rice noodles (vermicelli) and a number of fresh vegetables. This is sooo delicious, Simon ate it 4 times in three days! It was also fun to eat with chop sticks and a spoon. 











After lunch, Ana and Simon and the group took a bus to the Cu Chi Tunnels. This is an area that was controlled by the Vietcong (the communist South Vietnamese supporters of the North during the Vietnam war). As they were operating in the hinterland of Saigon (just some 50 km away), they were in constant fear of American searches and thus created a network of tunnels that allowed them to move great distances undiscovered and sometimes even live their for days. It was very impressive to see the small openings in which the Vietnamese managed to escape. Also, it reminded us that the Vietnam war is not that long ago and it has left some large scars in the landscape. If you are interested to read more about it, check out the Wikipedia article (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cu_Chi_Tunnels).
The first and only "Viet Cong" with blue eyes

                                                             


Upon return, some people decided to take a nap but Ana and Simon went to a massage place to get their tight muscles relaxed. One hour for 10 USD. Nothing wrong with that! For dinner, they met the rest of the INSEAD students and partners and went to a restaurant where they ended up taking over the largest eating room. So much fun, again delicious food and a crowd of 30 young and international people. Afterwards, they went out to go clubbing in Saigon and enjoyed partying for the first time in a while. 
Dinner with 30 people from >10 countries
On Friday, after two awesome days with a fun crew, Ana and Simon started their expedition to the Mekong Delta to have some quality time for themselves. A minibus came to pick them up and drove them out of Saigon. After 2 ½ hours, they arrived at a small town in the Mekong Delta from where they took a boat to the lodge. After the time in buzzling Saigon, they enjoyed the peaceful environment at the Mekong Lodge. It had it all: An absolutely unique setting along the banks of the Mekong River, a sustainable business model (employing locals from nearby villages and sourcing all food locally), very well-taken care off bungalows, interesting excursions and superb food. It really reminded them of a Garden Eden and was a perfect retreat. They also did bike and boat tours of the surrounding areas, including some market visits and local fruit tasting. Ana and Simon also managed to catch up on their sleep, well desired after exams and a tough working work. 
On our way to the Mekong Lodge
Our little private pool
Sunset over the Mekong River
Floating market

Our bungalow viewed from the Mekong River
The land market


Bye bye Mekong Delta


From the Mekong Lodge, they got back to the airport and flew directly to Singapore. What an awesome change of scenery. It clearly made them keen for experiencing more in the region. The next trips are booked already. But more to come!

Many greetings and best regards from the former British Crown Colony in Southeast Asia.
Ana and Simon

Thursday, February 28, 2013

Traveling 101

The major reasons for Ana and Simon’s move to Singapore have been laid out in the blog so far: Ana’s job experience in Asia and Simon pursuing his MBA. Moreover, to get a feeling for the culture here in South East Asia, they had the opportunity to experience Chinese New Year’s celebration and obviously, there is also some day-to-day experiences that are just very different than life in Europe (more on that in a later blog). One other advantage of being here in Southeast Asia is also that Singapore is a hub for the region and therefore traveling is made rather easy. Being a city state, Singapore is also so small which means that once you leave Singapore Island, you are already in another country. Since Ana and Simon will be here for the full year, they do not need to rush things (some of the INSEAD students seem to travel every weekend but they are only here for four months) and took their traveling plans easy: First, settling in, getting accustomed to culture and working / studying etc. However, they did leave the Singapore twice already.

One little getaway trip was on the third weekend in Singapore. About 35 INSEAD students had decided to go to Batam, an Indonesian island off the coast of Singapore, and Ana and Simon went with the crowd. Simon had classes on Saturday until 1PM and Ana came to pick him up. The total group had organized to stay in a down-to-earth resort which had large houses that would host 6 to 8 people. Ana and Simon’s travel group for the transfer and for the night therefore consisted of six other fellow students: Two guys (American and Indian) and four girls (Korean, Bulgarian, Russian and Lebanese). Talking about international student body! With the Spanish explorer and her German husband, there were eight nationalities in one house :-)
The international crowd on a speed ferry to Batam
Unfortunately, they had picked a weekend that would be rainy. And rainy, in Singapore and around means LOTS OF RAIN. They managed to get an early ferry but the boat ride was quite bumpy due to the weather conditions. They immigrated to Indonesia (which “costs” one and a half pages in the passport!) and transferred to their resort. With the weather being rainy, there was unfortunately not much to do. Going to a supermarket to buy “supplies” for the evening was already a big event. While Batam is probably a better developed part of Indonesia (it enjoys the benefits of forming a free-trade zone with Singapore), the differences that Ana and Simon could observe on their way around the island were quite significant. Nevertheless, the Indonesians were super friendly and rather liberal (being a muslim country, buying alcohol in the supermarket was not a problem!). 



The evening was lots of fun with eating in the hotel and drinking / partying and talking around the pool. The hopes were high that the weather would be better the next day since it didn’t rain at night but the hopes were crushed when breakfast was overshadowed by more rain. Well, they left Indonesia less than 24 hours after arrival so they will not claim that they’ve “seen it all”. But it was a good first getaway, lots of fun with an international crowd and a trip that provided them with new stamps in their passports. 
The INSEAD bag also works well to transport beer

Let's (pool)party!


 









The first real chance for a longer get-away was the Chinese New Year (CNY) weekend. This time of year, about everybody is traveling and therefore, flight prices were very expensive. Ana and Simon didn’t feel like paying more than 300 EUR per person for a flight so they considered alternatives. Also, staying here for a year, they didn’t have the “pressure” of seeing the coolest places immediately. After doing some research, they decided to give the other neighboring country of Singapore a chance: Malaysia. There are affordable bus rates to go to Kuala Lumpur and the highway between Singapore and Kuala Lumpur is quite well in shape. The advertised travel time was about 5 hours, even though it took the bus longer to cross the border and due to CNY, there was also a lot of traffic. However, it was quite nice to see the landscape of the tropical Malaysian peninsula and the bus was very comfortable (even though a bit too much cooled down by the AC). 
First view of the KL Tower



Ana and Simon left on Saturday morning and arrived in Kuala Lumpur in the late afternoon. The first impression of Kuala Lumpur (or KL as it is commonly called) was not much different from Singapore: Huge sky-rise buildings, air-conditioned malls and modern public transport. Still benefiting from Simon’s work project in the Middle East in 2010, they spent two nights at a Sheraton Hotel, with a great view of the KL Tower, one of the largest TV towers in the world. From there, they went to Chinatown for a dinner and a first exploration. In Chinatown, they saw a few differences between KL and Singapore. Things were a lot less organized and a bit dirty, including a rat strolling by a restaurant where they just had a beer and skipped the food. Ana was a bit uncomfortable since she was wearing a pretty dress and felt that she needed some “explorer” equipment. She had already purchased some khaki pants in Singapore and she completed her outfit with explorer shoes in KL. So Ana and Simon were ready for the next day. 

Sunday, they went to a place outside of KL, the Batu Caves which has a series of caves and cave temples. The cave is one of the most popular Hindu shrines outside India, dedicated to Lord Murugan which is a popular Hindu deity among Tamil Hindus, and is worshiped primarily in areas with Tamil influences (Tamils are from Southern India and Sri Lanka). Well, this is obvious much different than what they know from Western Europe or North America so it was quite interesting. They went up 272 steep steps to enter the caves, with a number of altars, religious figures and monkeys (yes, real monkeys). Obviously, there were many worshipers from India and this was a totally new experience for them. Some pictures can give the reader an idea of it. 
Ana (with her explorer pants) and Simon

The inside of the Batu Caves

Steep steps















After exploring these caves, Ana and Simon went back to downtown KL with a very friendly taxi driver (who even spoke some Spanish!). He dropped them near the Petronas Towers, the landmark of Kuala Lumpur. From their completion in 1998 to 2004, the towers were the tallest building in the world and an iconic structure, representing the rise of Southeast Asia to many. There was a nice park around the building and since it was super hot and humid, Ana and Simon were also happy to find an air-conditioned mall that was open as well. In order to see most of the city, they took a “hop-on-hop-off” tour of KL and learned much more about the Malaysian capital. Without getting too much into detail here, the major points of interests is that KL was founded relatively short while ago (in the 1850s) and soon became the most important city on the Malaysian peninsula. The British, who ruled the region until 1957 erected a number of impressive colonial buildings and left their cultural mark: The major square of KL was actually a cricket square. Obviously, the Malaysians wanted to change that and independence was declared on the cricket field, transforming it to Merdeka Square (Independence Square). Well, a few pictures of the city tour are attached. 
Simon and Ana with the Petronas Towers

Ana holding the flagpole

The Malaysian answer to Big Ben (or so the tour guide said)


Finally, Ana and Simon enjoyed their highest dinner ever at the revolving restaurant in the KL Tower. At 282 meters above the ground, they enjoyed not only a very rich buffet but also awesome views of the city, including the Petronas Towers. The funny thing is that while the Petronas Towers are so tall, the visitors platform is actually 100 meters lower than the KL Tower. So the vista enjoyed from there was definitely more impressive. 


The next day, Ana and Simon would already go back after a relaxing breakfast. So traveling 101 was passed successfully with the two small trips to the vicinity of Singapore. Now, they are ready for more. Next trips will be to the South of Vietnam (Ho Chi Minh City / Saigon and around) as well as a weekend in Phuket / Thailand. This will for sure be captured in a future blog entry. So far, this is it from Southeast Asia.
Many hugs from Southeast Asia’s melting pot
Ana and Simon

Thursday, February 21, 2013

Happy New Year


Well, a little bit late for this Blog title, you may think. Haven’t Ana and Simon celebrated their New Year still in Europe before moving all the way to Singapore? Well, they have – 2012 came to an end and 2013 was off to a good start. However, the year of the dragon had not yet ended and the year of the snake was not yet upon them. Wait a minute, year of the dragon? Is this some weird craziness? Well, technically, it isn’t. The “Western calendar” (or Gregorian calendar to be speaking more technically) follows the solar cycle and this system established many years ago, anchoring our years to the day when Jesus Christ was born (or somewhere around it). This is largely followed everywhere in the world, mostly for business and practicality reasons. Culturally, it is a whole other story. Most cultures actually follow a lunar calendar (the Islamic calendar is the best example) or a mix of lunar and solar calendar (that is, magically, called lunisolar) and thus, their New Year also is on another day then the Western calendar.  

A lot of technicalities but to make a long story short, the Lunar New Year happens in February and this is largely celebrated in Southeast Asia, especially by the (ethnic) Chinese – thus, most people say “Happy Chinese New Year”. 

...Including the Singapore Traffic Authority
Since Ana and Simon have never been to Southeast Asia, this was really a truly great cultural experience for them. First of all, already weeks before, there was a lot of decoration in red, not only across Chinatown. Red is supposed to be a good luck color and scaring away evil spirits. 

Decoration of a street in Chinatown

A nice shop in Chinatown

People on the street would be wishing each other “Happy Chinese New Year, if I don’t see you in the next days” just as you would hear that with “Merry Christmas if we will not meet before December 25th” anywhere in the US or Europe. Suddenly, there are “CNY sales” that advertise many great discounts, e.g. some new flat screen TV for SGD 888. The number eight is the “good luck” number. So there is some suspicion coming into the game. There were also fireworks that we could see from our balcony. Chinatown is this quarter lighted up in the foreground


 









Chinese New Year is the most important festival in China where most of the people have a whole week off. Literally, hundreds of millions of people travel home for that period which slows down business in the whole region (something that Ana truly appreciated). She had three days off – Friday, Monday and Tuesday and since Simon also had Friday and Monday off, they could enjoy some time together. They traveled to Malaysia and since this country also has a sizeable (ethnic) Chinese population, the New Year celebrations continued in Kuala Lumpur (more on the trip on another blog entry). 

Around Chinese New Year, there would also be a number of lion dances. The lion dance will be conducted by Chinese Martial Art Schools (it does require a high sense of coordination) and follow a rather stringent choreography. There would be lion dances at malls, at Ana & Simon’s apartment and also at INSEAD. The first day after the “week off” for many Chinese employees, there would also be red envelops with money and movie tickets distributed at Mercer’s Singapore office. 
Lion dance at our apartment building

The lion in front of our reception

So less than two months after Christmas, Ana and Simon could enjoy another major celebration and quite enjoyed it. They truly hope that you enjoy the pictures posted here. The new year is the year of the Snake.

Many greetings, hugs and Happy Chinese New Year from Temasek
Ana and Simon

  
For further reading:

The dog is kind of the mascot of our building - hanging out next to the lion

Lion dance at INSEAD
The lion tamer coming with two lions